Oakleys Bistro

Let's start with lunch. I recommend the Soup & Tart Bistro Combo ($13.75), which at the risk of being boring, is the only thing I order when I come here for lunch. Most recently, I went with Steph and Rachel, and we each tried a different combination. The soups that day were butternut squash maple, French onion, and lentil. The butternut maple was rich with the flavor of ripe squash, with just the right balance of sweet and salty. Sometimes soups like this can be rich and cloying, but this was completely slurpable. I didn't try Steph's French onion, but I can attest to the hearty portion size and the crispy cheesy slices of French bread floating on top. My own lentil soup was smoky and complex, with a gentle bloom of fennel.

We each had a different tart as well. The salmon tart had an Asian honey-soy glaze with layers of wilted spinach, napa cabbage, shiitake mushrooms and tomatoes. The sweet-tart salmon, bitter vegetables, and buttery flaky tart were a killer combination. The chicken tart was an upscale version of comfort food, with rosemary roasted chicken nestled amongst roasted tomatoes and finished with a bright apricot barbeque jam. The shrimp tart was yet again something new, with artichokes, spinach, and a tangy pesto vinaigrette. All three were delicious.

For those of you who aren't as enamored with the soup-tart combo, Oakleys has lots of yummy sounding entrees--all under $10--including meatloaf, chicken, fettuccini, and crepes. Of course, everything has a unique flourish (the chicken is served with apple slaw and hubbard squash coulis, the fettuccini includes goat cheese and pancetta, etc.).

We had a sunny table by the front window, which was cheerful, but a little chilly. Service was very good, and our server answered questions about the menu with authority. The only fault was that she was a little too quick to walk away after the obligatory "and how is everything" without actually waiting to hear the answer. (I wanted a glass of wine, dammit. I got it after some gentle flagging down.)

Our dinner table wasn't quite as well placed. Dave and I ended up way in the back between the kitchen and the bathroom, seated at a banquette (which is an efficient seating scheme but requires too much effort to maintain the fake barrier of privacy between you and the next table). The less-than-ideal location would have been perfectly fine, except our table was right next to the area where the waiters stand around waiting for their orders to come up. I felt hovered-over for most of the meal.

Aside from that, the meal was very good. The server started us with sourdough bread slices served with some delicious dipping sauces--olive oil, olive tapenade, and pear and fennel jam (serious thumbs up on that last one). Dave started with a spinach and endive salad (anyone want to give the definitive answer on whether it's pronounced en-dive or on-deev?) -- a moderately sized affair with blue cheese, sweet roasted pecans, carrots, and dried apricots. The mustard vinaigrette had a wasabi flavor that threatened to clear your sinuses but was actually well balanced.

Dave got the seared tuna entree, which was firm and fresh, but I found the preparation a little bland. The rice that accompanied it was wonderfully fragrant. I ordered the duck & duck. There were so many subtle flavors at play, it was difficult to distinguish them from one another -- the rich duck, crunchy matchstick-cut apples, sauteed bok choy and tomato puree all worked together beautifully.

The dinner menu is an expanded version of the lunch menu (sadly, minus the tarts), with more variety and more dollar signs (the $8.75 lunch fettuccini is $16.75 at dinner, which hopefully buys you at least a bigger portion). Next time I may try the sole with parsnip thyme puree, lentils, bagna cauda butter and almond raison relish (right after I ask the waiter what bagna cauda is). The fall vegetables -- four ways (mushroom pot pie, spinach soufflé, ratatouille lasagna and acorn squash fritter) is mouth watering enough to turn me into a vegetarian -- at least for the night.

Sides are a la carte and intriguing, although the entree portions are big and varied enough enough to keep you busy, so you don't really need a side unless you have your heart set on something. I had my eye on the glazed carrots with lavender honey or the mac-n-goat cheese with pesto.

The dessert menu looked equally as inventive but we didn't make it that far. I'd go with the warm vanilla basil cake with raspberry sorbet and crème anglaise, if you're asking. Then again, the cheesecake that comes with banana lime relish and salted peanuts (!) sounds interesting, so I'd make Dave get it so I could try it.

The wine list is a manageable size with very good prices. It conveniently divides the wines into “Light & Fruity,” “Medium & Well Balanced” and “Big & Bold” so you can easily zero in on the style that suits you.

A few other notes: the host or hostess has always been gracious and never snooty, even though I've never had a reservation and no doubt have appeared bedraggled at times. The space is comfortable -- the white linens and brown velvet curtains make it feel cozy without being stuffy. If you want a real experience, there is one dining table in the kitchen, so you can watch all the action. If you want that one, it's best to make a reservation. And finally, their entire menu is online (with prices – an unusual and useful convenience).

Oakleys Bistro has excellent food with fresh ingredients presented in unique and delicious combinations. Steven Oakley’s doing a great job (see, I knew I could work in that apostrophe eventually).

Location

1464 W. 86th Street (northwest corner of 86th and Ditch)
823-1231
http://www.oakleysbistro.com

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Price: $$$